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  • Ordered some of those wire wheels cheers

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    • I would have suggested that you could try pulse, but with unit like this i guess it's not really possible

      I have had my fair share of welding with TIG (no aluminium though), without having much practical experiences with MMA or MIG it's difficult for me to be good with those. Last time i tried MIG i think it was good enough but MMA still mostly useless. What i'm trying to say is that the tig is not difficult, it all depends on what you are used to, i started in the "wrong end" and getting confident in MIG or MMA is now a challenge. For any tig welding, clean work area and near to perfect fit is the key, this makes everything a lot easier.

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      • Originally posted by Zoig View Post
        I would have suggested that you could try pulse, but with unit like this i guess it's not really possible

        I have had my fair share of welding with TIG (no aluminium though), without having much practical experiences with MMA or MIG it's difficult for me to be good with those. Last time i tried MIG i think it was good enough but MMA still mostly useless. What i'm trying to say is that the tig is not difficult, it all depends on what you are used to, i started in the "wrong end" and getting confident in MIG or MMA is now a challenge. For any tig welding, clean work area and near to perfect fit is the key, this makes everything a lot easier.
        That's interesting. I started with mma and while no expert I would have no fear to take on most jobs with mma. Mig came later and I find it easy to weld with but more dificult to get neat welds every time. Less consistent maybe.

        As for pulse tig I think it would be good. At some part I was starting and stopping the arc to let it cool.

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        • You really need to be able to control the amps off a foot pedal as you need to control the heat you are putting into the material, I.e. You need more amps to form the weld pool, then drop back some. Having the right kit will really help
          Panthero Coupé quattro 20vt
          Indigo ABY coupé
          Imola B6 S4 Avant

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          • Originally posted by Error404 View Post
            You really need to be able to control the amps off a foot pedal as you need to control the heat you are putting into the material, I.e. You need more amps to form the weld pool, then drop back some. Having the right kit will really help
            The right kit in this case is probably over 1k which I can't really justify even though I want it. I wonder what the cheap eBay tig welders are like? Anyone have one?

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            • I am thinking of buying this. Looks ok to me. I dont have any experience with tig welder though....
              http://www.stahlwerk-schweissgeraete...sstattung.html

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              • Originally posted by bn-01-wso View Post
                I am thinking of buying this. Looks ok to me. I dont have any experience with tig welder though....
                http://www.stahlwerk-schweissgeraete...sstattung.html
                That one has lots of features and plasma cuts too. What concerns me is what helps if and when it goes wrong. Will they supply parts or does it get put in the bin?

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                • It has a 5 year warranty. I dont know about the parts. I guess you could try and give them an email.

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                  • welder

                    Des

                    I bought the welder below
                    Can recommend it if buying new
                    I only had it less than 6 months and the welder stopped working,Frost who it was bought off (Local to me) took it back for inspection and replaced with a new welder
                    They said it was the only one they had sold which had been faulty
                    That was about 4 years ago
                    Not a welder myself, all DIY
                    Have done a stainless exhaust and altered intercoolers
                    Downside with tig is the amount of gas they use when you are crap at welding

                    Eastwood TIG 200 AC/DC Welder

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                    • Originally posted by roger shaw View Post
                      Des

                      I bought the welder below
                      Can recommend it if buying new
                      I only had it less than 6 months and the welder stopped working,Frost who it was bought off (Local to me) took it back for inspection and replaced with a new welder
                      They said it was the only one they had sold which had been faulty
                      That was about 4 years ago
                      Not a welder myself, all DIY
                      Have done a stainless exhaust and altered intercoolers
                      Downside with tig is the amount of gas they use when you are crap at welding

                      Eastwood TIG 200 AC/DC Welder
                      Thanks for the feedback. Yea I am hard on the gas. Frost at least have a good reputation to protect I suppose.

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                      • R-tech are excellent units for the price.
                        Panthero Coupé quattro 20vt
                        Indigo ABY coupé
                        Imola B6 S4 Avant

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                        • Originally posted by diesel des View Post
                          What concerns me is what helps if and when it goes wrong. Will they supply parts or does it get put in the bin?
                          That's why I didn't buy a cheap chinese one, the R-Tech units are not cheap but they have excellent UK back up, not that I've needed it as mine has been faultless
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                          1991 Audi S2 3B - 2.5 Stroker engine
                          1997 A6 2.5TDi quattro avant - C4
                          1976 RD250E / 350LC cafe racer

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                          • Yep looked at r tech and they were on my list. Also found a local distributed for some sip stuff with 2 year warranty. Sure sip arnt great but I have heard or them and he can do a 200 amp unit with all the options e.g. pulse and frequency adjust and dc bias with foot peddle for less than 900 quid or a 300 amp for 1250.

                            For one job it's a lot. I would like it but not sure I can justify the expense. Also thinking of just getting some alloy mig wire. Might do the job and for the kit I need less than 100 quid.

                            Also he had some funny welding masks.





                            Got the lights sorted out. One is new!



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                            • Originally posted by Error404 View Post
                              You really need to be able to control the amps off a foot pedal as you need to control the heat you are putting into the material, I.e. You need more amps to form the weld pool, then drop back some. Having the right kit will really help
                              Pedal makes balancing the heat and travel speed a lot simpler, but it's not not mandatory. For example in usual autobody 0.8mm steel, it's possible to dial in the settings to near perfect compromise between forming the puddle and manageable travel speed, i have gone that route when i'm welding in positions where reliable use of the pedal is near impossible, ofcourse pulsing is the key for me.

                              From the back of my head last time i used the "rule of 33", i think it was 40A peak, 13A background, 33Hz and 33% on time, 0.5s upslope starting from 5A and 0.3s downslope to 5A, 1s preflow and 3s postflow. Forming the puddle took around 2s from initiating the arc depending on the fitup, sometimes a tad more, sometimes less. That was good enough speed for me that i could form the puddle, dab some filler and get going.

                              Des, let me know if i should stop offtopicing about welding here.

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                              • Originally posted by Zoig View Post
                                Pedal makes balancing the heat and travel speed a lot simpler, but it's not not mandatory. For example in usual autobody 0.8mm steel, it's possible to dial in the settings to near perfect compromise between forming the puddle and manageable travel speed, i have gone that route when i'm welding in positions where reliable use of the pedal is near impossible, ofcourse pulsing is the key for me.

                                From the back of my head last time i used the "rule of 33", i think it was 40A peak, 13A background, 33Hz and 33% on time, 0.5s upslope starting from 5A and 0.3s downslope to 5A, 1s preflow and 3s postflow. Forming the puddle took around 2s from initiating the arc depending on the fitup, sometimes a tad more, sometimes less. That was good enough speed for me that i could form the puddle, dab some filler and get going.

                                Des, let me know if i should stop offtopicing about welding here.
                                Nope its all good stuff. Those welders have So many options hearing how they can be setup could be useful.

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