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S2 Avant -93

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  • #91
    Nice update, you've been pretty busy! Did you get any further with your smoking issue?
    Greg

    S2Forum.com Administrator & Webmaster

    '93 Coupe with a few tweeks

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    • #92
      Valve stem seals normally cause smoke when you first start up but as they get worse will also cause smoke on coast. Try going down a steep hill with your foot off the throttle when the engine is good and warm and see how much smoke you make. Another cause of blue smoke could be the rings. You used to be able to buy an additive to free gummed rings and Morris do a ring free oil which works well in the old International tractor
      Nothelle S2 Avant
      Black Ur project
      Ocianic Ur project gone
      S2 Coupe project gone
      Urs6 plus project gone

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      • #93
        Originally posted by Greg_S View Post
        Nice update, you've been pretty busy! Did you get any further with your smoking issue?
        Thanks! I finally had a couple days just for myself and I decided to get some work done on the car The smoking is annoying since it has been very intermittent and it doesn't even do it everytime. Only things that I have noticed that smoke appeared only when gently cruising (engine under vacuum) and engine was up to temp. Zero smoking when idling cold. Can I safely rule out the stem seals?

        However I did change my oil to 10w40 from 10w50, but I did it early spring and the smoking issue only appeared now.

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        • #94
          A little update

          My interior lights have not been working since I bought the car and giving the dark winters we have here it was starting to be a little annoying. I already had confirmed that one of the wires were broken, so it was time to find exactly where


          I can't stop loving this loom spaghetti

          20200108_114120.jpg

          To dig out the harness I had to remove the front seat. If something is straightforward with these cars the seat removal is one of them!

          20200108_114219.jpg


          So I removed the tape around the harness and found the badly corroded wire just under the seat.

          20200108_114240.jpg
          20200108_114316.jpg

          So the damaged wire was removed from under the dash connector and a replacement was routed under the rear seats where I soldered the new wire to the loom. I also purchased a new crimp tool for non insulated terminals:

          20200108_123658.jpg
          20200108_124534.jpg
          20200108_124555.jpg

          After that the terminal was inserted to the connector under the dash and the wires got a clean and a harness wrap:

          20200108_134518.jpg

          And finally I have interior lights The light panel was also replaced.

          20200108_145818.jpg

          Comment


          • #95
            Nice job!
            what make is the crimp tool? I can't make it out. I need one
            Nothelle S2 Avant
            Black Ur project
            Ocianic Ur project gone
            S2 Coupe project gone
            Urs6 plus project gone

            Comment


            • #96
              Originally posted by Tractor Dave View Post
              Nice job!
              what make is the crimp tool? I can't make it out. I need one
              I see Kamasa

              S2 Coupe 3B Project


              Ur quattro restoration

              S2 Avant

              Boost is the new rock and roll!
              sigpic

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              • #97
                Edit: I had to split this post because the forum would not show all images. There might be a picture limit/post that I wasn't aware of

                I also had a increasing noise coming from the alternator, so I figured it was time to change the bearings. Luckily they are readily available. The removal of the alternator was a pretty straightforward job. After taking all the mounting bolts out and loosening the belt, one ac hose had to be loosened to get the alternator out under the car.

                Alternator on a bench. The shaft has place for a xzn10 socket to counterhold the shaft while undoing the nut. Luckily mine was not too tight.

                20200118_123708.jpg


                After loosening the nut the pulley just pulls out. Next was the removal of the rear plastic cover. Three small screws and a plastic clips on the side.


                ​ 20200118_123839.jpg

                20200118_123907.jpg
                ​


                Under the cover reveals the diode bridge. Three screws there as well


                ​ 20200118_124738.jpg


                After that you have to remove the stator leads from the diode bridge. I was a little afraid to do this because I wasn't sure if I can get the leads back on properly. There is a copper "double hook" where the lead are crimped. I took a small screwdriver and gently opened the connectors. Fortunately nothing broke and I was able to get the leads back on later. After the screws and leads are loosened, the diode bridge just pulls out.


                ​ 20200118_132440.jpg


                After that the casing bolts were removed


                ​ 20200118_125029.jpg


                I used a pin punch to gently tap the casing to loose the two halves


                ​
                20200118_125327.jpg

                ​


                The inner slip ring was worn. I suspected this and had already ordered new one


                ​
                20200118_125916.jpg

                The rear bearing just pulls out. (Yes I know its a sucky puller ​)


                ​ 20200118_130631.jpg


                Then it was time to release rotor from the front casing. I used a puller as per the pic


                ​ 20200118_140515.jpg


                And out. After this I just used a socket and a hammer to tap out the front bearing. Before that I took out the bearing retaining plate that holds the bearing in (sorry no pic)


                ​ 20200118_140818.jpg


                The casing got soda blasted. It doesn't take away the deepest oxidation marks but I can say it's cleaner than before!

                ​ 20200118_164705.jpg

                20200118_164718.jpg



                Then I took out the old slip ring. Just unsolder the rotor leads and brake the plastic around the shaft. When fitting new one be sure to align it correctly. The slip has a small snub that has a matching pocket in the rotor. After the slip rings were in I installed the bearing just by using proper sized deep socket and a hammer.


                20200118_164830.jpg
                ​
                Continued on post #103...
                Attached Files
                Last edited by Antsa; 13 February 2020, 13:33.

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                • #98
                  Originally posted by Tractor Dave View Post
                  Nice job!
                  what make is the crimp tool? I can't make it out. I need one
                  Yes it's a Kamasa K248, with changeable jaws to allow crimping of different terminals

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                  • #99
                    Cheers
                    Nothelle S2 Avant
                    Black Ur project
                    Ocianic Ur project gone
                    S2 Coupe project gone
                    Urs6 plus project gone

                    Comment


                    • That's a great little write up Antsa.
                      PS. Some of the alternator rebuild pics aren't displayed at present, well not for me at any rate.

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                      • I can't see them either if I log out. I will probably have to make a new post. How about the interior light post, every photo there ok?

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                        • Yes, the interior light pics can all be seen.

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                          • Alternator repair continues...

                            The front casing got a bake to ease installation. The bearing was put in a freezer. Needless to say the kitcen police wasn't home


                            20200119_153648.jpg


                            Front bearing in place. This pic shows the retaining plate.


                            20200119_163645.jpg


                            All that was left was the carbon brushes. I ordered genuine items from Audi just to find out they were too big. I could grind them down but I decided to try to find correct items. Fortunately local spare parts store was ope sunday and had the correct sized items on the shelf. However they are some sort of far east crap but they will have to do for now. They just solder on to the voltage regulator



                            20200119_175324.jpg

                            20200119_174151.jpg

                            That was basically it. Refitting is the reverse of removal. If someone needs I have the bosch p/ns for the bearings

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                            • The alternator posts any good now?

                              Comment


                              • Yes, all present and correct.

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