Nice update, you've been pretty busy! Did you get any further with your smoking issue?
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S2 Avant -93
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Valve stem seals normally cause smoke when you first start up but as they get worse will also cause smoke on coast. Try going down a steep hill with your foot off the throttle when the engine is good and warm and see how much smoke you make. Another cause of blue smoke could be the rings. You used to be able to buy an additive to free gummed rings and Morris do a ring free oil which works well in the old International tractorNothelle S2 Avant
Black Ur project
Ocianic Ur project gone
S2 Coupe project gone
Urs6 plus project gone
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Originally posted by Greg_S View PostNice update, you've been pretty busy! Did you get any further with your smoking issue?
However I did change my oil to 10w40 from 10w50, but I did it early spring and the smoking issue only appeared now.
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A little update
My interior lights have not been working since I bought the car and giving the dark winters we have here it was starting to be a little annoying. I already had confirmed that one of the wires were broken, so it was time to find exactly where
I can't stop loving this loom spaghetti
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To dig out the harness I had to remove the front seat. If something is straightforward with these cars the seat removal is one of them!
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So I removed the tape around the harness and found the badly corroded wire just under the seat.
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So the damaged wire was removed from under the dash connector and a replacement was routed under the rear seats where I soldered the new wire to the loom. I also purchased a new crimp tool for non insulated terminals:
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After that the terminal was inserted to the connector under the dash and the wires got a clean and a harness wrap:
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And finally I have interior lights The light panel was also replaced.
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Originally posted by Tractor Dave View PostNice job!
what make is the crimp tool? I can't make it out. I need one
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Edit: I had to split this post because the forum would not show all images. There might be a picture limit/post that I wasn't aware of
I also had a increasing noise coming from the alternator, so I figured it was time to change the bearings. Luckily they are readily available. The removal of the alternator was a pretty straightforward job. After taking all the mounting bolts out and loosening the belt, one ac hose had to be loosened to get the alternator out under the car.
Alternator on a bench. The shaft has place for a xzn10 socket to counterhold the shaft while undoing the nut. Luckily mine was not too tight.
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After loosening the nut the pulley just pulls out. Next was the removal of the rear plastic cover. Three small screws and a plastic clips on the side.
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Under the cover reveals the diode bridge. Three screws there as well
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After that you have to remove the stator leads from the diode bridge. I was a little afraid to do this because I wasn't sure if I can get the leads back on properly. There is a copper "double hook" where the lead are crimped. I took a small screwdriver and gently opened the connectors. Fortunately nothing broke and I was able to get the leads back on later. After the screws and leads are loosened, the diode bridge just pulls out.
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After that the casing bolts were removed
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I used a pin punch to gently tap the casing to loose the two halves
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The inner slip ring was worn. I suspected this and had already ordered new one
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The rear bearing just pulls out. (Yes I know its a sucky puller ​)
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Then it was time to release rotor from the front casing. I used a puller as per the pic
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And out. After this I just used a socket and a hammer to tap out the front bearing. Before that I took out the bearing retaining plate that holds the bearing in (sorry no pic)
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The casing got soda blasted. It doesn't take away the deepest oxidation marks but I can say it's cleaner than before!
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Then I took out the old slip ring. Just unsolder the rotor leads and brake the plastic around the shaft. When fitting new one be sure to align it correctly. The slip has a small snub that has a matching pocket in the rotor. After the slip rings were in I installed the bearing just by using proper sized deep socket and a hammer.
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Continued on post #103...Last edited by Antsa; 13 February 2020, 12:33.
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Alternator repair continues...
The front casing got a bake to ease installation. The bearing was put in a freezer. Needless to say the kitcen police wasn't home
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Front bearing in place. This pic shows the retaining plate.
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All that was left was the carbon brushes. I ordered genuine items from Audi just to find out they were too big. I could grind them down but I decided to try to find correct items. Fortunately local spare parts store was ope sunday and had the correct sized items on the shelf. However they are some sort of far east crap but they will have to do for now. They just solder on to the voltage regulator
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That was basically it. Refitting is the reverse of removal. If someone needs I have the bosch p/ns for the bearings
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