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  • Originally posted by Error404 View Post
    Yes there is a bracket each side for the brake line and the ABS sensor - it bolts through the two holes in the inner wing.

    See pic from my project below:

    image_70511.jpg

    There is no factory provision for the wear sensor, although you could easily tee into the brake fluid level sensor circuit on the driver side (RHD) and PAS fluid level sensor on the passenger side.
    Both of these trigger the autocheck warning by pulling to ground.
    Thanks Alex. I have the inner wing one. Found the other on AT and have emailed Will to see if he can add them to my order. Nice idea re the pad warning sensor. I will add that to my list of thing to do.
    Nothelle S2 Avant
    Black Ur project
    Ocianic Ur project gone
    S2 Coupe project gone
    Urs6 plus project gone

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    • Now I know why so many pics of engines going in here have the EM turbo and down pipe fitted. It’s all a right PITA. No space at all to do the nuts up. Had to take the drive shaft off again to give space as well. One step forward, two steps back the norm for this project and me.



      My alternator is totally dead. Corrosion inside caused it to lock up and it’s not fixable. Anyone got a spare Bosch 120a ABY one?




      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      Nothelle S2 Avant
      Black Ur project
      Ocianic Ur project gone
      S2 Coupe project gone
      Urs6 plus project gone

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      • I noticed that the wastegate pipe was off slightly where it connects to the downpipe (you can see this in the pic above). I can connect them up but its putting a lot of strain on the connection and I'm worried it might break something if left. I read that others had a similar issue using the Wagner EM. Any suggestions? I could make a small spacer to close the gap? What is the best option?
        Nothelle S2 Avant
        Black Ur project
        Ocianic Ur project gone
        S2 Coupe project gone
        Urs6 plus project gone

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        • have seen people bend the flex pipe and it fits. does not look nice but it works. im going for an aftermarket wastegate and some custom adapters to get it shiny =D

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          • If it’s just the gap you’re worried about the flexi will stretch.
            If it out of line axialy then the standard technique is to put the WG in the vice, put a length of thick tube up the flexi and “tweak” it over. It was way further out on my setup and it’s been totally fine for many thousands of miles. The flexi has a non flexible liner, make sure the open end of this is towards the DP.

            S2 Coupe 3B Project


            Ur quattro restoration

            S2 Avant

            Boost is the new rock and roll!
            sigpic

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            • Originally posted by rxl View Post
              have seen people bend the flex pipe and it fits. does not look nice but it works. im going for an aftermarket wastegate and some custom adapters to get it shiny =D
              Its more of a stretch than a bend
              Nothelle S2 Avant
              Black Ur project
              Ocianic Ur project gone
              S2 Coupe project gone
              Urs6 plus project gone

              Comment


              • Originally posted by newsh View Post
                If it’s just the gap you’re worried about the flexi will stretch.
                If it out of line axialy then the standard technique is to put the WG in the vice, pit a length of thick tube up the flexi and “tweak” it over. It was way further out on my setup and it’s been totally fine for many thousands of miles
                Ok, I will wing it then. Perhaps a RS2 turbo would be a better fit
                Nothelle S2 Avant
                Black Ur project
                Ocianic Ur project gone
                S2 Coupe project gone
                Urs6 plus project gone

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                • Not much progress to report. I'm waiting for a parcel from Kit with a selection of parts then I can fit the radiator, intercooler, oil cooler, fill it with oil, water and PAS fluid. Make the last connections to the front brakes, fill and bleed the brakes and clutch and then finally turn the key and see if she runs. I've got some cheapo 15w40 mineral oil to run her on for 20 mins or so and then change for another fill of the same with a new filter (as recommended by my mate who re built the engine). She wont be going out for a run just yet. The local Council have started to salt our roads. Lots more to do anyway and I could do with a rest!
                  Nothelle S2 Avant
                  Black Ur project
                  Ocianic Ur project gone
                  S2 Coupe project gone
                  Urs6 plus project gone

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                  • heres a thread about it.. https://www.s2forum.com/forum/techni...o-rs2-manifold
                    another wagner part that is plug and play

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                    • Originally posted by rxl View Post
                      heres a thread about it.. https://www.s2forum.com/forum/techni...o-rs2-manifold
                      another wagner part that is plug and play
                      Thanks. I didn't see that thread. I will go with what John suggested. It's only a small gap. I might cut a gasket from 2mm flexi Aluminium and add that to help.
                      Nothelle S2 Avant
                      Black Ur project
                      Ocianic Ur project gone
                      S2 Coupe project gone
                      Urs6 plus project gone

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                      • If you are lucky Dave, I might have the wastegate flange I cut off my downpipe recently - would make a perfect spacer
                        Panthero Coupé quattro 20vt
                        Indigo ABY coupé
                        Imola B6 S4 Avant

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                        • Originally posted by Error404 View Post
                          If you are lucky Dave, I might have the wastegate flange I cut off my downpipe recently - would make a perfect spacer
                          Even better
                          Nothelle S2 Avant
                          Black Ur project
                          Ocianic Ur project gone
                          S2 Coupe project gone
                          Urs6 plus project gone

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                          • Your engine builder is spot on with his advice. My recently rebuilt 7A did 300miles on its first fill of cheap oil, despite extensive flushing and cleaning, the bits that came out made for quite a shock, let alone what might be in the filter! (the bolt for scale is m4)
                            The next fill lasted 700miles and there was virtually nothing in that in terms of bits so in went synthetic and back to my usual oil change interval. There are many many articles about running in rebuilt engines, what did your builder advise? I settled on driving it pretty much normally and giving it some beans but not full throttle. It didn't 'seem' right to me but oil pressure and compression is good.
                            The science behind it is that the rings need some combustion pressure behind them to push into the bores and bed in... So I gave them some pressure . I definitely wouldnt idle for 20mins as that's hardly working the engine at all. There is a lot of info out there saying that with plateau honed bores, the majority of the bedding in process takes 20-45minutes and you can't go back...
                            Attached Files

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                            • Thanks for the advice Steve. Its not going on the road for a while so I will just run it for 5 mins or so and change the oil. I do remember being told that a car run in slowly is always a slow car. My mate did say not to use synthetic oil for at least 500 miles as modern synthetics are just too good and don't allow any bedding in.
                              Nothelle S2 Avant
                              Black Ur project
                              Ocianic Ur project gone
                              S2 Coupe project gone
                              Urs6 plus project gone

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                              • I imagine you will be eager to hear it working, there is no problem with that! It took a 'while' cranking over on starter to build oil pressure (maybe 10--15 seconds with spark plugs out) but started straight away after that. I do have the benefit of knowing it all worked before rebuild though...

                                Good luck

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