struikie - Audi 80 B4 quattro project

[Tractor Dave]

Everyone has their own preference and quality products from the likes of Bilt Hamber, Dinitrol and 3m all work well. The most important bit is getting the metal really clean and completely rust free. My choice is then, Bilt Hamber hydrate 80 (very thin), Novol Protect epoxy primer, Bilt seam sealer, Bilt black epoxy top paint, dinitrol underseal. The other unpainted parts are then coated with Bilt clear wax.

[struikie]

Thanks Dave. Had a look into those products. Bilt Hamber is not that readily available in Holland, but I get
the system that you are using.

Had some vibration on the front axle while braking. Swapping a disc only made things better for a very short
period. Measured the front hubs today and that showed some deviations.
Left hub 0.1mm - with 345mm disc 0.28mm
Right hub 0.6mm - with 345mm disc 0.1mm

I am not measuring much sway on the side of the hub, just on the front. So the hub face is bent, rather
than the whole hub is bent.

The hubs (from Autewo) with bearing will be 200 each...
Perhaps I can remove the hubs and skim them on a lathe.

This car is starting to eat more and more money hahahaha
Also need to replace both rear lower control arms. The bushings have
completely rotten onto place and bonded with the arms.

JW

[Tractor Dave]

Did you not fit new hubs at the beginning? Have you tried a dial gauge run out test on the discs? Is there a tiny amount of play in the wheel bearing that side? Did you paint discs, hubs or wheel backs?

[struikie]

Did you not fit new hubs at the beginning?
Yes, 4x brand new from Autewo.

Have you tried a dial gauge run out test on the discs?
Not separately, but I get identical results with 4 separate discs of which 1 is brand new.

Is there a tiny amount of play in the wheel bearing that side?
No. Brand new bearings were fitted and the car hasn't been driven much since.

Did you paint discs,
No

hubs
No

or wheel backs?
No, but the wheels were second hand. Perhaps the mating face of
one of the wheels is crooked and has pulled the hub out of shape.

There is hardly any radial difference, it's all axial. So the hub itself isn't bent,
just the face in axial direction.

JW

[Tractor Dave]

I would remove the faulty hub and send it back to Autewo for a replacement. They can pay for new wheel bearing as well.

[struikie]

I am afraid that there is one or more wheels that have a bad mating face.
Just measured the rears and they have run out as well. Think I'll press them
out and have the front faces skimmed on a lathe.

So that's another addition to the shopping list: new wheels and tires...

JW

[Lago Blue]

JW,

Regarding "Also need to replace both rear lower control arms. The bushings have
completely rotten onto place and bonded with the arms."

You may remove the seized in place bushings easily if they are constructed similarly (I haven't done the lower arm) to the front A-arm or rear upper A-arm bushes as follows:

a) Use a hole-saw with a slightly larger I.D. than the bushing's steel core O.D. to tunnel all the way through the rubber section of the bushes (if the cores aren't torn free already) leaving just the bushing shell still in place in the arm; and
b) See the description and photo of the 'saw from the inside' bushing shell removal method outlined here:

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/audi-90-80-coupe-quattro-cabriolet-22/poor-mans-b4-rear-upper-arm-inner-poly-bushings-2129366/

Cheers.

[struikie]

Thanks! I had gone down that route. Removed the rubber inside, but
the steel bushing isn't budging. Ordered a set of refurbished ones off eBay.
Needed to get them blasted and coated anyway.

JW

[struikie]

Cleaned some stuff.



Haven't found replacements of these. Looks like I need to copy them...


JW

[struikie]

Had the diff mounts water blasted and fitted Strongflex bushes to the rear mount.
The front mount is from Verkline. I will paint all in 2K satin clear.



Got my new wheels today.
Protrack ONE 8x18
ET35
These are about 9kg.





Thinking about fitting Goodyear Eagle F1 Super Sport tires in 235/40. Will these clear the front strut or should
I stick with 225/40?

Still waiting on the hubs to be pressed out (the shop I left them is very busy....)
Then I'll be able to send stuff out to be zinc and powder coated.

JW

[struikie]

Received my twin disc clutch setup today.
It has been made by FTWL Motorsport in Poland. It has 2 Sachs Race Engineering sprung discs
and a SRE pressure plate. This will hold up to 1000Nm (stage 1 lol).
VR6 on one side, 01E on the other.







JW

[struikie]

Kept on having trouble with a leaking join in the exhaust. Bought a stepped piece to
go from 2 to 3" and had it welded on.


Received the refurbished rear wishbones.


Made the small heat shield that I couldn't find a replacement for. Not so easy working
with this thin aluminum stuff. Very fragile. (Inspired by Antsa)

Made some brake heat shields out of 2mm aluminum. Folded the edges over by 10mm
to add some rigidity. Think I'll have them powder coated.


JW

[Antsa]

That's some good looking brake shields How did you manange to fold the edges so clean? Sheet metal stretcher/shrinker maybe?

[struikie]

Clamped them to the disc and slowly hammered them around the edge

JW

[struikie]

Put the strut bearings on the front shocks.


Dropped off a lot of parts to be powder coated.

JW