My Coupe project

[Tractor Dave]

This is where they need a small trim.


You can just make out the black marker pen.


After trimming. They will need paint now otherwise they will rust where trimmed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[steve briance]

Thanks Dave, that is really helpful.

They dont need much of a trim at all so will order up a pair and see how they go. I need to align my prop and if im going under to do that, i dont want to do ot again of the mounts upset it. Do it all in one go is the way forward!

[Bowie69]

Yep, did the same, you can see the trimming in my thread, I think.

definitely tightens things up, but most importantly, the way I drive I was doing a rear diff bush every year......

[Tractor Dave]

Finally got the fuel lines done. Not easy getting all those twists and turns nicely lined up.





I’ve used new e10 rubber pipes and stainless fittings. Also put some protection where pipes or fittings might rub together.

Replacing Avant pipes is much easier.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[johne]

Dave, given the twists and turns are mostly in the two low pressure lines, the stainless/plastic OE feed to the fuel filter taking care of the rest, would you consider using more of the Cohline rubber hose to get you to say as far as rear of the floor panel run an easier alternative if you had to do this again??

[Tractor Dave]

Dave, given the twists and turns are mostly in the two low pressure lines, the stainless/plastic OE feed to the fuel filter taking care of the rest, would you consider using more of the Cohline rubber hose to get you to say as far as rear of the floor panel run an easier alternative if you had to do this again??

I'm getting better at it as I go so probably would do the same again and keep it oe. It looks better IMO plus I've 're used all the original holders.

[Tractor Dave]

Filled the diff with oil and fitted the lock actuator. I found a stainless clevis in the end. Plenty of sealant around the boot and no leaks so far. Fingers crossed.


Then set my subframe up on a platform and put the diff in.
To get the subframe lined up accurately I borrowed my boys laser pen.


I then slowly and carefully lowered the car on the lift and simply did the bolts up. Difficult to say 100% but I seem to have covered all the old bush marks so hopefully alignment won’t be an issue.
I used m12 od stainless tube to make sleeves for the bushes.
B5Nut kindly also sent me a set he had made and I’m using those on the Porsche gearbox mounts.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Jaswan]

Just ordered some 12mm OD 10mm ID aluminium tube.... Didn't realise that the bolt holes on the subframe bushes were different front to rear... Will need to revisit that! Thanks Dave!!!

[Mikes2]

Not all of them are though. fronts were M10 for 1991 and 1992.

[Tractor Dave]

I made good progress today.
All the wishbone bushes pressed in without any issues.


I was going to use the same tool as before but the bush will only take M10. So, improvised in the vice.


You can only go so far with this socket then you have to swap over to this.


Then test fitted one.


So then made a start on the shocks.


The instructions from Koni are pretty skimpy.
I didn’t like the idea of adding anti freeze either. The rear shocks were the original and looked to be untouched from new. They had a small amount of light oil in the strut. So, instead of adding antifreeze, I put 50ml of oil in.
Shocks set to one turn off fully soft.


My home made tool worked and I managed to torque the strut cap to 120nm which was a challenge!

I had to adapt my slotted nut tool as it was going to foul the top bush.
It needed a little trim.


Then fitted the first strut in the car.
I feel I’m making progress now.


I need to make a list of all the bolts that need torquing up when it’s on the ground so I don’t forget anything.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Bowie69]

Paint mark each bolt when torqued, no paint = not torqued.

[Tractor Dave]

Paint mark each bolt when torqued, no paint = not torqued.

Good plan

[Tractor Dave]

Wheel bearing day.
I prefer to use my bearing tool rather than the press. It’s less violent and you can feel exactly what’s happening. Takes a bit longer mind.
This job took much longer than it should have because quite a bit of powder coat had found it’s way past the masking onto the bearing surface. It’s a ****** to get off as well.


I bought FAG for the rear and SKF for the front.
I think they are both good makes.


There is a set way to putting bearings in. Get it wrong and you ruin the bearing.
Outer race supported first.


Then swap over to an old bearing cleaned up to go the last few mm.


You can easily feel when the bearing hits the stop.
On the front carriers, you need to grind the edge of an old bearing otherwise it can get stuck. We don’t want two wheel bearings in there!


Then the hub. Now you must support the inner race from behind. No pic (I forgot) but my tool has the correct bush to support the bearing.


The FAG bearings come with some nice goodies included. You don’t need the lock rings for the S2.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[B5NUT]

Also using FAG & SKF, both good makes and have used the on various Audi over the years with no problems.

[Tractor Dave]

My rear hubs are coming together.


I need to make up the driveshafts before I go any further and decided the prop shaft would be first.

The diff end joint is new as the old one had some play but the gearbox end joint just had a clean out and new cv grease.
I had to balance the prop up on a platform as I was working on my own.


But we got there and thankfully my centre support markings were clear.




Next job is to rebuild the other four driveshafts.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk