My S2 coupe bit of a rebuild and repair thread.

[psiconauta911]

Thanks, good luck is all I´m counting on!

[newsh]

Hope its a tube not the condenser... fingers crossed.

Might even be the O ring! Had that on my B5 RS4.

[psiconauta911]

I was keeping quiet as not jinx it.

[psiconauta911]

Postponed to next thursday.

[Rikki Kitto]

Over the last few weeks I've really been enjoying the car. However I took it off the road a few days ago as I found a very small coolant leak at the back of the engine. It was also clear the rocker cover gasket was starting to go as it there was a fair amount of oil at the back of the engine.

Before I tackled the above jobs I got on with the aircon system as I got some parts from kit to help get the system working again. So fitted a replacement compressor with replacement lower pipes that were free from holes.
1-pump.jpg
So with that done I went off to get the system gassed. Which did not go well. First there was some confusion about how the system was filled as the low pressure side port is a screw thread rather than the push fit on the R134 systems. So went with just testing the system using the high pressure port. That found another sizable hole behind the protective on the pipe in the image below as you can see some of the green oil that was spat out.
2-cover.jpg

So at this point I got a little fed up with the car so purchased a new toy to fix that sort of BS.
3-welder.jpg
After a long talk with the guy's at r-tech I went with the digital version, as it does appear to be easier to setup.
4-welder.jpg

So on with fixing the pipe. The hole first hole was easy enough to repair. Once done I noticed the nut at the end would turn but not move down so after a bit of a smack it moved and it presented me with this.
5-hole.jpg
There was no way my welding skills could have fixed that so near to that lip, so the pipe was scrap!

Thankfully kit had a spare which turned up today. It did have a small hole but was easy enough to fix even with my poor welding skills
6-hole.jpg

So after cleaning up the area the hole was welded up. Not the best of jobs but OK for someone with about an hours worth of practice
7-fixed.jpg
At least now I should be able to fix and make some parts myself. Rather than standing in front of someone with a small job and them, sucking air through their teeth. It's almost like I've just dropped the titanic off for a quick welding job to get it up and running again!


Also purchased these adapters, got two types to see which would be the best fit. Turns out the L shape one is better as there not much room near the compressor. I was concerned the push fit connector would not fit with the straight adapter attached.
16-adapters.jpg



Next up on the list was the coolant leak. Looking through the old threads most users have talked about the union being damaged due to it being brittle. So I ordered replacement unions as they are cheap enough and Alex did not have any of the alloy ones in stock.

After draining the coolant system which feels like I've done it hundred time now, the union was removed. It looked to be in very good condition, no cracks or damage and had no signs of being brittle.
8-union.jpg

The o-ring however was in a poor state, that was starting to crack and was no longer round. So I refitted the old union with a new o-ring which I hope will resolve the minor coolant leak.

To give better access to the union I removed the heat shield that protects the brake reservoir. It was covered in rust and looked very scabby.
9-shield.jpg

The rivets were drilled out and all the parts shot blasted.
10-blasted.jpg

The heat shield material was then painted with high temp paint and the steal parts with epoxy. While the Mrs was out I put the parts painted with the high temp paint in the over to cure Once dry the shield was rebuilt.
11-cover.jpg12-cover.jpg


Next up was the cam cover gasket. when it was removed it was on the hard/crusty side. However I was pleased with what I found when I removed the cover. It looks nice and clean in there.
13-head.jpg

Cam lobs also look in good condition, and the chain appeared to be tight enough.
14-lobs.jpg


So with the new gasket fitted the engine was put back together which was as far as I got today before rain stopped play. Hope to get the aircon pipe fitted tomorrow morning along with a new dryer. I just hope that will get the A/C working again.
15-engine.jpg

Might want to think about changing or removing the oil splash guard before it disintegrates into the engine ?

[B5NUT]

Thanks. Did not know that could happen. Looks like I've already lost a little chuck of it! Will pull it out this weekend
1-guard.jpg

I take it I'm not going to have any issue with leaks around the oil filler cap with that removed?

[Rikki Kitto]

It's only to stop oil splashing up when you open oil cap with engine running lots of people have removed them

[B5NUT]

Car is booked in for an MOT next weekend. It's a few months early but I prefer my MOT's due in the summer months, so if something needs fixing then I'll have good weather to do it. One of the MOT failures on the car was the exhaust system, on rough roads it was able to touch the prop shaft. I modified one of the hanger brackets a while ago to stop it from happening, however It still happened depending on the road. Another bugbear of the system was the alignment of the tail pipes, and I also hated the U-camp setup. made it very difficult to get the alignment right.

With the exhaust system removed, the drivers side handbrake cable was removed. I used a passenger one from a none quattro model which is about 5cm longer and it gets a little to close for the exhaust for my liking. Thankfully they are still available from tradition.
1-handbrake.jpg
2-handbrake.jpg

For the exhaust I chopped of the expanded end, these were both from the middle section also had to cut the one from the back section as well.
1-exhaust.jpg

Ordered 3 stainless sleeves. The middle sections is 2" and the rear section is made from 2.25" stainless
2-sleeve.jpg
Unfortunately only 2 of the 3 clamp I ordered turned so had to improvise with PVC pipe and hose clips. Told It won't last 5 minutes, but I think they are wrong should last at least 7 minutes
3-sleeve.jpg

So the middle box would not hit the prop shaft the hanger welded to the box had to be modified. Tried the using the MAP torch to get the hanger hot enough so I could bend it but not a chance, so got creative with the TIG. After 30 minutes or so I finally got the hanger correct so the alignment was correct. Not the nicest looking but at some point I will replace the entire system.

4-bracket.jpg

Missing sleeve also turned up. Not too keen on the look of the plastic one
8-sleeve.jpg

With the centre section fixed I started on the back box. The tail pipes were sitting far too low, so had to bend the pipe slightly. However I had no idea how to bend 57mm stainless steel pipe with the tools I had at home. Only option that I came up with was to cut a 2mm slit across most of the dimeter of the pipe then bend it in the correct direction. Tacked it first then refitted to the car once happy with the fit I welded it back up. My welding is not the best but it's the first time I've welded steel using the tig. Ground back the weld a little then fitted the sleeve.

5-sleeve.jpg

This was the original alignment
image_85141.jpg

New alignment. It also sits more flush with the bumper.
image_85142.jpg

That's most likely the last fix I do on the car before it goes for the MOT. However I need to look at the overrun on the locking pump when the car is unlocked. Think the fault is with the boot lock.

[B5NUT]

Did one more job today. Removed the oil splash guard. It had already cracked in two places so I'm glad it's been removed.
1-guard.jpg

[Tractor Dave]

Yikes
I had better put that on my jobs list.

[psiconauta911]

Did one more job today. Removed the oil splash guard. It had already cracked in two places so I'm glad it's been removed.
1-guard.jpg

Next time the valve cover comes of that part will be taken out to.

Back to my AC problem, you were right B5NUT, the condenser is the culprit, they are hard to find and I found some from Valeo in Germany for around 200€, what do you guys think, have mine repaird (if doable) or buy the Valeo one and replace?

[B5NUT]

Turns out this is now the last fix that I will do to my car before the MOT

Replace the brake switch. Don't think there is anything wrong with the switch just the plastic thread has been damaged so think it's slipping over time in the housing. So new one was was fitted today.
switch.jpg


Still getting the occasional brake bomb warning light come up for a second then goes away. It only comes on about 30 seconds after I drive the car away (then immediately goes out) for the first time that day. It then never happens again for the rest of the day. Has to be a sensor but which ones can bring on the Bomb warning light?

Also don't get it if I leave the car to idle, even for 5 minutes. However as soon as I start to drive the car even after being idle the warning light comes on 30 seconds or so later, but then the warning light goes straight out.. Would be nice if the S2 cluster had diagnostics

[Bowie69]

There's a pressure sensor on the master cylinder/booster, plus a switch in the lid of the hydraulic fluid reservoir.

There may be one on the bomb as well, though I don't remember .

[Tractor Dave]

Nothing on the bomb. It's probably the one on the brake booster.

https://audi.7zap.com/en/rdw/audi+co.../6/612-612030/

[johne]

Early in my car's life I had similar problems which I traced to the brake fluid level sensor switch in the side of the brake fluid reservoir.

Unplugged the connector and the problem went away. You can tuck the loose plug end up behind the reservoir so it won't be spotted in the MOT

Try it, there's nothing to loose. A new reservoir and switch is expensive for a RHD if it's even still available but the level switch is common across several Audi/VWs of that period and I believe you can change just the switch out. It's one job I've meant to do but 22 years later I'm still running with it unplugged............