Another "Stroker" Project

[diesel des]

All you want to do is test for tdc. So don't worry about the pins exact position. That's vems job. You tell vems in its setup the offset in teeth between the pin and tdc. The pin could be say 20 or 40 deg before tdc. The exact position isn't so important. What is more important is that vems knows where the offset is. So just put white paint on the flywhee at tdc and adjust offset number in vems to find tdc with vems timing set at 0.

To be honest I havnt done this I just used the normal offset as stated by people on the site. This means my map could be offset a few degrees. But as the car runs at its best it doesn't matter what the number is. Just means I may not be able to directly compare a map with someone. But not many people want to show the maps anyhow. Eg my map may say 16 deg at one point and another map say 20 but be the same due to offset.

[A80Avant]

yes, you need an adjustable timing light. i bought one which wasnt adjustable so if you have one of these you are only left with the option of setting idle timing to zero.(but i too am not sure if this is bad, therefore i borrowed an adjustable timing light and did it)

[GazzaG60]

depends what yolu class as 0.

are these not 8 deg stock timing there or there abouts. you could call that 0 i suppose.

[diesel des]

Why would 0 deg at idle be a problem. Normally timing at idle is about 10 deg give or take. That's 10 deg advance or 10 deg btdc. So, 0 deg is retarted from there and mega safe. Engine may need more throttle to keep going due to the retard.

As I say to reduce confusion set a temporary map in vems to 0 deg every where. Fit normal timing light as I describe. Make sure tdc mark is clear to see. Point strobe at mark. Run engine and adjust vems teeth offset to get tdc on the strobe. Done.

Just put your timing map back in when finished. If your reference was changed you need to adjust your map to suit. Adjustable timing lights add confusion and arnt always accurate.

[Billman]

Some IC and downpipe pics

last pic of hall sender: How should i use these clips in order to mount it?

[A80Avant]

i have only 2 concerns.

1) downpipe and wastegate pipe are too close and may be hitting each other on vibrations.You may need to cover them in heatshield.

2)same reason, the IC outlet and inlet pipes are comming too close together and that to the A/C compressor. You may need to stabilize them somewhere,somehow!

[A80Avant]

also, is there something like a traverse holding the front of the car together? that little metal thing that has the holes to hold the IC from the top doesnt seem very strong.(from the picture that is)

[Billman]

The traverse at the front make a Γ shape and seems very stable (when i grab it and try to move it with force it doesnt move. also the IC and pipes are good in place and have enough distance. As for the downpipe i will be sure when i start to use the car...

[Billman]

Here is a new clip of the car. I can hear a noise from the engine but doesn't know what it is. I think it comes from the head nut it sounds not as a tapped but more solid and dump. Is not as loud as a tappet and i think it comes from a single location. In the clip you can not hear it very good but it is there. It sounds a bit like a diesel (is it because the block comes from a diesel??? )

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RHi0nAd4ioE

[JP]

From what I can make out you are lacking oil pressure to the cylinderhead. The only time I've heard the very mechanical sound of the cams in the heads is when someone came to me with a 16v that sounded like that. Ended up having silicone blocking the oilway into the cylinder head where it comes out of the block and steps sideways some silicone got lodged in the headgasket channel. Exact same noise. Fixed the oil pressure issue and the noise went away.

[Billman]

I have indeed low oil pressure when idling with warm engine like in the video! Ouside temp today was 38 celciuous and at idle I had 1 bar idling at 800 RPM. Oil pump is new but it could be the oil that I am running for the first miles that is of lower quality.

What pressure do the others with strikers see at idle?

When I rev it goes right up till 5 bar.

[A80Avant]

it sound like tappets noise. i had that as well when my cyl head and tappets were old

[Billman]

It is definately not the tappet sound I was hearing on my old engine with low oil level on a warm summer day after a good thrashing and cornering! The sound back then was a metallic sound! This one now is with lower frequency and dump!

[Billman]

Today it was clear. With cold engine no noise at all. When it got hot i heard it. Tomorrow I am going for 5 liters of mobil1 5w-50. Hope this will sort it out.

[Billman]

Oil changed today but still low oil pressure when engine hot and idle. The cam noise is away. I think i must order a new one way valve (i cleaned the old one very good and it doesnt seem like something complicated). The block had the old style one way valve with spring.

I dont have any piston slap at cold engine but i noticed a noise that is either piston slap or knock at high loads at low RPM till 2200 or so.

here is a log of this area;any ideas?