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Terrybullwon's Racing S2 coupe

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  • Good to see your engine back together again.

    Just a word of warning about that rad on the saloon, its the same bar and plate rad I used to run in the golf, anyway long story short, after a back to back tests it worked out 20% less efficient than a tube and fin rad of the same size core.

    Keep up the good work.
    The ONLY S2 Golf!
    http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19402
    10.42@138mph
    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0wnkkOfFpXg

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    • Originally posted by gnutz2 View Post
      Good to see your engine back together again.

      Just a word of warning about that rad on the saloon, its the same bar and plate rad I used to run in the golf, anyway long story short, after a back to back tests it worked out 20% less efficient than a tube and fin rad of the same size core.

      Keep up the good work.
      Thanks Baz, it came with the car. Its got cast end tanks and weighs a ton. Sound about the same? Its from a ford escort i think?
      Chef

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      • Originally posted by terrybullwon View Post
        Thanks Baz, it came with the car. Its got cast end tanks and weighs a ton. Sound about the same? Its from a ford escort i think?
        It's definitely the same, eBay has been flooded with them for years, 600x300x50mm core if I remember, and yes, very heavy, cast end tanks with bar and plate core.

        http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-ESCOR...MAAOSw37tWASk7
        The ONLY S2 Golf!
        http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19402
        10.42@138mph
        https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0wnkkOfFpXg

        Comment


        • Originally posted by gnutz2 View Post
          It's definitely the same, eBay has been flooded with them for years, 600x300x50mm core if I remember, and yes, very heavy, cast end tanks with bar and plate core.

          http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-ESCOR...MAAOSw37tWASk7
          Thats the one 100%
          Chef

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          • Went to Brands on the 3rd of this month for a timed test day with pretty much me and half the porche cup grid and quite a few ginetta's. It was pissing down and greasy as hell a few people went around in front of me into the gravel. The Miss fire i had at ADI went after i changed the internal data logger channel over. And i treated it to a new set of NGK racing plugs 30 laps in recommended by Jp they worked a treat

            I came away from the day with a few lessons learnt.

            The diff ramps are far to agressive for the wet, the car was lethal!

            The wets i have are ****ing useless it was like trying to piss in the wind.

            I had soooooooooo much under steer on throttle for corner exit.

            DO NOT try and follow a Porsche down paddock hill corner in the wet it will only get messy and very side ways.

            Lap times were fair for the Wet having never really driven it like a complete **** in the wet. Phill my Uni student that helps me was ill so i ended up alone it was bloody hard work.

            Air jacks made my life alot less painful!






            I have a few odd jobs to do like sort the manifold and turbo hot side as its bolted not studded and keeps working its way loose



            Other than that i have been working on the 80

            Chef

            Comment


            • Originally posted by terrybullwon View Post
              The diff ramps are far to agressive for the wet, the car was lethal!

              I had soooooooooo much under steer on throttle for corner exit.


              I have a few odd jobs to do like sort the manifold and turbo hot side as its bolted not studded and keeps working its way loose
              After driving in the wet I removed my front LSD. It was understeer from hell on corner exit if you not went for it big time and got the rear out, but I'm not a good enough driver to drive like that
              No problem in he dry either without the front LSD so OK to remove it with my setup/car.

              Tried using no gasket at all between turbo and manifold? If flat your OK with only a very very thin layer of exhaust sealer and then just bolt it solid together. I've done it like that and it has woorked OK for years. Just retighten the bolts/nuts after some use.

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              • I second the no gasket at all trick. Be careful of exhaust paste as I saw it destroy a turbine wheel.

                Sent from my LG-H955 using Tapatalk

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                • I never use gasket. Just a thin coat of high heat silicone. I also use all-steel locknuts..... thru bolted.

                  Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

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                  • Looking good. I like the look of the top mounts on the 80, any more pics/info?

                    I have thought about machining turbine flange for a copper wire ring instead of gasket, not sure if that would work or not.

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                    • Shouldn't need any gasket or sealing if you can mill the flanges
                      Aerotight nuts?

                      Will you get another diff set or change the setup to work in all conditions ?
                      Panthero Coupé quattro 20vt
                      Indigo ABY coupé
                      Imola B6 S4 Avant

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                      • i use this type. notice its squeezed a little, no nylock nylon to melt. those ones are also good.

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                        • Ah cool, OEM ones are squashed like that too.
                          I've not seen them on the aftermarket, what are they called mate?
                          Panthero Coupé quattro 20vt
                          Indigo ABY coupé
                          Imola B6 S4 Avant

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by Audi_CQ View Post
                            After driving in the wet I removed my front LSD. It was understeer from hell on corner exit if you not went for it big time and got the rear out, but I'm not a good enough driver to drive like that
                            No problem in he dry either without the front LSD so OK to remove it with my setup/car.

                            Tried using no gasket at all between turbo and manifold? If flat your OK with only a very very thin layer of exhaust sealer and then just bolt it solid together. I've done it like that and it has woorked OK for years. Just retighten the bolts/nuts after some use.
                            Is that with the ARB's on still? Which diffs are you using and what ramp angles?
                            Also what damper rate did you try on the low speed bump?
                            I am convinced with a decent set of wets i would have been alot better off.


                            Originally posted by diesel des View Post
                            I second the no gasket at all trick. Be careful of exhaust paste as I saw it destroy a turbine wheel.

                            Sent from my LG-H955 using Tapatalk
                            Originally posted by speeding-g60 View Post
                            I never use gasket. Just a thin coat of high heat silicone. I also use all-steel locknuts..... thru bolted.

                            Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
                            Originally posted by martinws View Post
                            Looking good. I like the look of the top mounts on the 80, any more pics/info?

                            I have thought about machining turbine flange for a copper wire ring instead of gasket, not sure if that would work or not.
                            Custom made weld in plates from DMD and the adjustable mounts are from a BMW, the tube is 40mm T45 and its about as far back as you can go before you hit the wheel on the arch

                            Originally posted by Error404 View Post
                            Shouldn't need any gasket or sealing if you can mill the flanges
                            Aerotight nuts?

                            Will you get another diff set or change the setup to work in all conditions ?
                            I dont think thats a option i am going to get Johnny at Racing transmitions to check the ramp angles and preloads. Its a shame changing the diff between wet and dry but it might be that way.

                            Originally posted by speeding-g60 View Post
                            i use this type. notice its squeezed a little, no nylock nylon to melt. those ones are also good.

                            So looks like i get the faces decked and run no gasket then chaps
                            Chef

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by terrybullwon View Post
                              Is that with the ARB's on still? Which diffs are you using and what ramp angles?
                              Also what damper rate did you try on the low speed bump?
                              I am convinced with a decent set of wets i would have been alot better off.

                              Front ARB removed and Whiteline rear ARB.

                              Used a 25% 1 way front LSD, but is now removed.

                              40/60 RS4 center diff from Prospeed

                              Have tried both a torsen/V8 and 75% 1.5 way plate rear LSD(not sure about the ramp angles I'm afraid ). The V8 didn't hold the power and failed at a trackday.

                              Have fixed dampers. Bilsteins with motorsport valves.

                              Good set of wets helps, but my $0.02 is that with to much front grip the center diff pushes more power to the front and it understeers. The 40/60 center helped a bit, but was much better without the front LSD in the wet. Better with a bit of tire spin then not being able to get round the corner at anything other then "walking pace"

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                              • This all, Chef??





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