From Audi 100 to urS4 in a week

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • hunker7
    replied
    Opened up and cats are not blocked. That was my first thought.

    Leave a comment:


  • igor136
    replied
    Catalysts?

    Leave a comment:


  • hunker7
    replied
    Originally posted by UrS4boy
    With stock tyres (225/50/16) and a 0.73 top gear, 4000 RPM = 98.5 mph (158.7 kph).

    Maybe you have a speed "nanny" in the software.

    Assuming that your fourth gear is 1.03:1, what happens when you take it to say 6000 RPM in 4th? - should be 105 mph (169 kph)

    What happens when you pull up the anchor and retract the drag chute?
    I am starting to think I have a "nanny".

    I don't think I've ever gotten past 100mph, 4th gear will go past 4k easily.

    I will try on Sunday (will be on my own in a car)

    What did you mean by this: What happens when you pull up the anchor and retract the drag chute?

    Leave a comment:


  • UrS4boy
    replied
    Originally posted by hunker7
    So just went on a motorway and it won't go past 4k rpm in 5th/6th gear, and there is no shaking or anything, just won't move further. 1st, 2nd, 3rd gear pulls like a train, boosts nicely too.
    With stock tyres (225/50/16) and a 0.73 top gear, 4000 RPM = 98.5 mph (158.7 kph).

    Maybe you have a speed "nanny" in the software.

    Assuming that your fourth gear is 1.03:1, what happens when you take it to say 6000 RPM in 4th? - should be 105 mph (169 kph)

    What happens when you pull up the anchor and retract the drag chute?

    Leave a comment:


  • hunker7
    replied
    So just went on a motorway and it won't go past 4k rpm in 5th/6th gear, and there is no shaking or anything, just won't move further. 1st, 2nd, 3rd gear pulls like a train, boosts nicely too.

    Leave a comment:


  • hunker7
    replied
    Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • UrS4boy
    replied
    Originally posted by hunker7
    Great information as usual, thanks. Will make one good instrument cluster from 2 I've got, and experiment with the bad one.
    Here's one done by a well known UrS person ("Igor K.") with mad engineering skilz of all sorts. Unfortunately, he says he did this 15 years ago on an 1997 UrS6 (must have started with an UrS4 cluster) and did NOT document what or how he did it. He said substituting the Voltmeter for the clock was quite easy.

    Sure.

    Leave a comment:


  • hunker7
    replied
    that's why there was only couple coming up, as they called them turbo gauge Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • UrS4boy
    replied
    Originally posted by hunker7
    ahh, fair enough. Was trying to find something stock-ish looking
    VDO was a good choice for that (stock looking). It's just that there are better VDO boost gauges.

    VDO has a number listed under "Turbo" (not "boost") including the one below (good for Stage 1+ (e.g. 24 psig)) but not RS2'd Stage 3 (26 to 28 psig):



    Leave a comment:


  • hunker7
    replied
    Originally posted by UrS4boy
    Agree. With vacuum you can monitor the condition of the engine. A plain boost gauge can't do that. A boost gauge that goes to 3 bar is 1/3 useless because no normal daily driver UrS AAN will be taken over 28 psig (1.95 Bar).

    Here are two that I have used and a metric one by a friend:

    Autometer (white-faced, side lit)



    Marshall (grey/silver-faced, true back lit)



    Local 97 UrS6 owner's Greddy (white-faced, back-lit, 2 Bar with peak hold):

    Originally posted by newsh
    you really need vacuum
    ahh, fair enough. Was trying to find something stock-ish looking

    Leave a comment:


  • UrS4boy
    replied
    Example boost gauges that work on an AAN

    Originally posted by newsh
    you really need vacuum
    Agree. With vacuum you can monitor the condition of the engine. A plain boost gauge can't do that. A boost gauge that goes to 3 bar is 1/3 useless because no normal daily driver UrS AAN will be taken over 28 psig (1.95 Bar).

    Here are two that I have used and a metric one by a friend:

    Autometer (white-faced, side lit)



    Marshall (grey/silver-faced, true back lit)



    Local 97 UrS6 owner's Greddy (white-faced, back-lit, 2 Bar with peak hold):

    Leave a comment:


  • newsh
    replied
    you really need vacuum

    Leave a comment:


  • hunker7
    replied
    This would look very nice

    Leave a comment:


  • hunker7
    replied
    Great information as usual, thanks. Will make one good instrument cluster from 2 I've got, and experiment with the bad one.

    Leave a comment:


  • UrS4boy
    replied
    Originally posted by UrS4boy
    Or NOT:

    from a previous post of mine on qW:

    "Based on Bentley X62 for UrS4 and page W90-25

    Colour...Function

    Black.....Analogue Clock Adjustment
    Brown....(+) Terminal 30 - to instrument cluster dimmer switch
    Red.......(+) to Voltage stabilizer J166
    Orange...(+) to Voltage stabilizer and then cluster bulbs
    Yellow....(-) Ground
    Green....(+) Power to Oil Temp and Pressure Gauges

    But please take the above with a large grain of salt, and check for yourself."

    In retrospect, what I don't see there is the signals from the UrS4 oil pressure and temp senders. Needs more investigation.
    Okay some more investigation. See the diagram below. 6 round dots representing the ribbon cable connector. Seem to be labeld or connected to the following, top to bottom. t, u, m, n2, p and "o". This is what I found looking at the connecting and referenced diagrams:

    Letter - Presumed colour, based on the list above - Details

    t - Green - Connected to T26a/12 in the instrument cluster - some links to T55/40 at the ECU

    u - Yellow - connected to the fuel gauge at T26/3 but related to the clock

    m - Orange - T26/11 in the cluster connector and the computer display J128/ voltage stabilizer

    n2 - Red - J6 - voltage stabilizer and on to the G21 speedometer

    p - Brown - connected to the instrument cluster lighting dimmer switch/clock control

    "o" - Black - T26/14 in the instrument cluster as a Red/Blue wire through [459] to the other side of the clock

    G8 = Oil temperature signal from sender - Black/Brown to T4b/2 and then the G9 oil temp gauge

    G10 = Oil pressure signal from the sender - Black/White wire - via T3m/2 and then T4b/1

    Analogue gauges like a stablized voltage, a sender signal/variable resistance ground and lighting.

    It would be possible to fit aftermarket gauges in there - with a bit more work on the wiring.

    Leave a comment:

Working...