From Audi 100 to urS4 in a week

[newsh]

You can change stem seals without taking the head off.

[andy10v]

Do you think its the valve stem seals?

You can get a head gasket kit for ECP, GSF, local motor factors, quattro corner etc. Just make sure its a MLS one. Victor Reinz seem to be rated on the forum.

You will need new head bolts (stretch)

[UrS4boy]

*cough http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74199 cough*

Gosh. It's even got new liners too!!!

[hunker7]

I am not buying an engine!!!!!!!!!

[quattrostyle]

*cough http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74199 cough*

[hunker7]

So, by the looks of it I need an emergency head work. Engine's eating loads of oil. On start up there is blue smoke(cold), and oil consumption starts only around city driving. On long runs oil is OK.

Initially I wanted to do the head in summer, but by the looks of it it is very bad and I can't wait till summer, spending loads on oil.

Any pointers where can I get a gasket set?

[hunker7]

Before


After




Also chased down why my window relay keeps clicking, central locking pump giving false signals. Here is my "cheap fix" for now.



Also swapped over fuel gauge and temp. gauge so now temperature is showing, and hopefully won't run outta fuel again

[hunker7]

As Christmas half-term is coming up, I have couple of bits I am planning to do.

I am not very big fan of the fact that spare wheel well can be seen from the back (messes up the proportions), so I am considering to remove it, and just replace it by metal sheet. How is the well held onto the car (glued?) and what is the best way of removing it? Looked much better on my A100, and side profile looks way better.





Another thing is, I want to do all the bumpstops with covers, rear top mounts. But I am thinking of 40-30 drop, so what bumpstops should I buy, or I just cut OEM ones?

Also, don't know if people remember, but my PAS fluid radiator was rusted, so I had to to do with V8 one for now, but it doesn't fit properly, and bumper won't fit properly too. So, I've been thinking of buying stainless steel or aluminum tube, and make one, anyone done that, or have an opinion on that idea?

Also will be trying to chase down the problem with consumption, as currently don't have time, uni work taking my up all my free time. Will start with compression test, then check ignition and test the rest of the sensors.

Thanks

[hunker7]

So I am safe to say MAF is fully functional? I'll check the air temp sensor see what that says, as I said before, coolant temp. sensor seems to run ok, started the car from cold and temperature was climbing steadily, will test when car's at normal operating temp.

[UrS4boy]

Another example of MAF testing results

Just for comparison, here are my MAF testing results:

G70 MAF info post: http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/20442.phtml

1. Testing for ground: Disconnect the harness connector from the MAF. Set your DMM to 20 ohms and look for continuity between Pin 1 (Pin 6 is the empty position) and ground on the engine or chassis. My result = 0.5 ohms = continuity = there is a ground for the MAF = good to go so far

2. Testing for connection to the injector circuit: Turn the DMM to 20 VDC. Connect to Pin 5 and ground. Turn on the ignition. You should get some positive DC volts. My result: 11.1 V = good

3. Checking MAF function: With harness connector removed, switch DMM to 200 ohms. Connect DMM probes to terminals 1 and 2 on the MAF (1 is on the right, 6 is on the left). Record the resistance. My result: 0.000 ohms
Disconnect leads and "Short" the circuit (press probe ends together). Display value must equal value recorded previously. My result: 0.000 ohms = same = good

If the difference is greater than 0.1 Ohm, replace MAF. (Nope. All is good so far)

Re-connect the MAF sensor harness connector. Peel back the rubber boot on the connector to expose the terminals. Switch the DMM to 20 VDC. Connect the DMM to the back side of Terminals 1 and 3. Turn the ignition switch to "ON" (run) but don't start the engine. Should be 1.2 to 1.5 Volts. My result: 1.25 V

Start the engine and let idle. Voltage reading should now be 2.5 volts. My result: 2.50 V
Increase the engine speed briefly (manually move the throttle position to more open). Voltage should increase to 3.0 to 5.0 volts (depending on engine speed). My result: 3.05 V

All the of the specified voltages must be obtained. If NO = replace MAF. (Nope, all good)

[hunker7]

I can check, but doubt that. Still need to check intake air temp. sensor. I do get a like whistling noise from the turbo, I can make a video tonight, dunno if that's normal.

[Majorcina]

U changed fuel lines under car if i reamember good? Maybe u got a leak there

[hunker7]

As I said before I have had issues with fuel consumption. Getting 15mpg around town and 26mpg on a longer motorway run. Tyres are 225/45. According to vag, coolant temp. sensor is working ok, as I used measuring blocks and temperature was climbing steadily (is there any other way of checking the temp sensor?)

Checked MAF using one of Dave's write ups:

1. Testing for ground: Disconnect the harness connector from the MAF. Set your DMM to 20 ohms and look for continuity between Pin 1 (Pin 6 is the empty position) and ground on the engine or chassis. Not continuity = you have a ground issue involving that Brown/red wire. Start tracing back, looking for a broken wire. Won't be fun.

2. Testing for connection to the injector circuit: Turn the DMM to 20 VDC. Connect to Pin 5 and ground. Turn on the ignition. You should get some positive DC volts.

3. Checking MAF function: With harness connector removed, switch DMM to 200 ohms. Connect DMM probes to terminals 1 and 2 on the MAF (1 is on the right, 6 is on the left). Record the resistance. Disconnect leads and "Short" the circuit (press probe ends together). Display value must equal value recorded previously.

If the difference is greater than 0.1 Ohm, replace MAF.

Re-connect the MAF sensor harness connector. Peel back the rubber boot on the connector to expose the terminals. Switch the DMM to 20 VDC. Connect the DMM to the back side of Terminals 1 and 3. Turn the ignition switch to "ON" (run) but don't start the engine. Should be 1.2 to 1.5 Volts. Start the engine and let idle. Voltage reading should now be 2.5 volts. Increase the engine speed briefly (manually move the throttle position to more open). Voltage should increase to 3.0 to 5.0 volts (depending on engine speed). All the of the specified voltages must be obtained. If NO = replace MAF.

Reading I got was :

1. I got 0.09 ohms between pin 1 and ground
2. Injector circuit test came up with 12.15v
3. Testing MAF functionality I got 0.08 ohms (same as between pin 1 and 2)
4. Between pin 1 and 3 I got 1.42v, at idle it was 2.43 and when reving the engine, it went upto 4.6v.

There are no errors codes still and boost is all ok

[hunker7]

I might make the plastic molding from one peace, so it looks neater and leave the numberplate in.

[irishs2]

I like them too