Urq project

[mac2226]

Who did the Cylinderhead des

[diesel des]

Its one of JP's max spec heads. Was built from a crack free 7a head. Ported with the larger valves and uprated springs.

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[bn-01-wso]

How much larger are the valves? 0,5mm? Do you needed new valve seats? I also have 0,5mm oversize valves and they are bigger than the stock valve seat. Thanks

[diesel des]

Think the valves are 0.5mm oversize and JP modified the seats to suit.

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[bn-01-wso]

So you still have the original seats? Just asking so i know what to expect when i start building the head. I've heard some people say that you can't use stock seats with oversize valves.

[diesel des]

The first head i got done by done with supertech valves stock size i had larger seats fitted. This was far my urs4 and was built be someone else. JP reckoned he could use the stock seats on the larger valve. I dont know how, but he has plenty of experiance with these things so i trusted him.

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[diesel des]

Some more done. I fitted the modified aan intake and now need to modify the aby water manifold. Drilled the block and fitted a water oftake for the heater hose. I also drilled and tapped the block for the knock sensors.







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[diesel des]

Light weight lifters in and 7a cams. Bent up some stainless pipes for the water flow and return to the turbo. Just need to tig on the banjos now. Also started messing with alternators. Have made an a6 Tdi 120 amp fit and line up ok. Need to make proper spacers. It needs a 6pk belt about 830mm long now.

The belt backing plate is obviously too short for the stroker so I cut it and welded on a piece of steel.






















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[quattro-nick]

that seems like an alternator support from your old 10vt engine des

[diesel des]

that seems like an alternator support from your old 10vt engine des

That's the badger lol

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[diesel des]

Yea I bent up some 1/2 inch od stainless pipe to run to and from the turbo. I have tacked on some m14 banjos at the turbo end. I will tig them up next week. At the other end is a short length of silicon hose to go from the pipe to the stud on the back of the block and onto the water manifold.

Reason I use hard pipe instead of braided flex is that I have had bad luck in the past with water hoses on Turbos getting cooked from the manifold and the routing of the water pipes to a turbo are really in the danger zone. The oil pipes arnt so bad as they are mostly vertical until they are away from the turbo.


I did the same on my Urs4 stroker and it seems a good job. Bit of time bending now saves burnt hoses on the track. Hopefully....


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[quattro-nick]

i have put all my tubes on the turbo in a heat-resistant cloth just to be sure
the first piece from my water tubes on the turbo are from iron like on a origional s2 turbo

[diesel des]

i have put all my tubes on the turbo in a heat-resistant cloth just to be sure
the first piece from my water tubes on the turbo are from iron like on a origional s2 turbo

Yep I also now cover the oil lines in thermal wrap to give them something extra. The bit of silicon at the ends of my solid lines furthest from the turbo gives enough flex to remove the turbo easily and I also cover it too.

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[Error404]

Yea I bent up some 1/2 inch od stainless pipe to run to and from the turbo. I have tacked on some m14 banjos at the turbo end. I will tig them up next week. At the other end is a short length of silicon hose to go from the pipe to the stud on the back of the block and onto the water manifold.

Reason I use hard pipe instead of braided flex is that I have had bad luck in the past with water hoses on Turbos getting cooked from the manifold and the routing of the water pipes to a turbo are really in the danger zone. The oil pipes arnt so bad as they are mostly vertical until they are away from the turbo.


I did the same on my Urs4 stroker and it seems a good job. Bit of time bending now saves burnt hoses on the track. Hopefully....


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Nice one Des.
I deleted my original post as I hadn't read your post properly
I've been looking at high end tube benders to make up some stainless hardlines, mostly due to packaging issues with the AC pump on my motor. Some fire sleeve will take the edge of the radiant heat from the manifold & hotside but you are dead right the rubber will degrade quickly. Swagelok make some nice bending kit - not cheap though.

[diesel des]

Yep we use swagelock benders in work for hp gas impulse and control lines. We use Waverley brownall fittings though.

The bender I used was a roller job I got from German eBay and it does 8 10 12 16 20mm tube from memory. Its a vice mounted thing. Seems good with stainless but takes a bit of experimentation as you can adjust the pivot points on it for different pipe materials and diameters. With stainless 1/2 pipe in the 12mm roller I found I could set it up to do very tight bends with no kinking. It seems useless with copper though.

Will try and find a link.

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