Urq project

[AndyP]

Pedal makes balancing the heat and travel speed a lot simpler, but it's not not mandatory. For example in usual autobody 0.8mm steel, it's possible to dial in the settings to near perfect compromise between forming the puddle and manageable travel speed, i have gone that route when i'm welding in positions where reliable use of the pedal is near impossible, ofcourse pulsing is the key for me.

From the back of my head last time i used the "rule of 33", i think it was 40A peak, 13A background, 33Hz and 33% on time, 0.5s upslope starting from 5A and 0.3s downslope to 5A, 1s preflow and 3s postflow. Forming the puddle took around 2s from initiating the arc depending on the fitup, sometimes a tad more, sometimes less. That was good enough speed for me that i could form the puddle, dab some filler and get going.

Des, let me know if i should stop offtopicing about welding here.

I would agree with this for mild/stainless steel, but for aluminium I would say a footpedal is almost mandatory if you want to get consistant welds.

[diesel des]

Just to add some more to the welding bit. I called into momentum motorsport and bought a nuke fuel surge tank. Nice kit and good fellas to deal with. They post all over the world.

Anyhow i got chatting to a old friend who is a fabricator there. They build rally cars and all sorts of nice motorsports stuff. Had a Nissan gtr engine on twin efr 7163 Turbos on the stand ready for a car. Also a quaife dealer with sequential 8k boxes for evos etc. Anyhow I asked him what they used for a tig and they actually use this sip 214 I was looking at. He has beat on it for 3 or 4 years and was so impressed he bought one himself. He is happy with its alloy And steel performance. And he seems to be able to weld proper....



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[diesel des]

Progress report. I finished off the support for the rear bulkhead. My dad came up and cut some alloy sheet that is ready to go on the frames. He also started cutting sheet alloy for the doors and quarters.





I then started on the exhaust. I worked form the back box forward. Man a 3 inch system is tight on this car. I used my dc thermal arc on tig and while I won't be winning any welding contests I'm happy enough. It is easy compared to this alloy tig crap.













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[Zoig]

I would agree with this for mild/stainless steel, but for aluminium I would say a footpedal is almost mandatory if you want to get consistant welds.

My experience with aluminium is not sufficient to argue, my personal TIG does not do AC so i have not had much time playing/testing with aluminium welding.

Basically the problem with aluminium is that its a really good heat conductor, so you would need a whole lot more amps to get the puddle going, but as the piece heats up the amps should go down or travel speed should increase. There could be no "good enough" equirlibium like steel has, or if there is then the limit is certanly a lot lower than on steel that you can weld in this kind of scenario.

Logically speaking tough, unless you are trying to repair an A8 the most you would be doing on weird positions would be intake plumbing and similiar tacking jobs on the car, I'm pretty sure you can dial in the settings for reliable tacking without pedal. After that dismount the piece, drag it back to the table and weld it like a normal person using a pedal at the welding table

[quattro-nick]

Progress report. I finished off the support for the rear bulkhead. My dad came up and cut some alloy sheet that is ready to go on the frames. He also started cutting sheet alloy for the doors and quarters.





I then started on the exhaust. I worked form the back box forward. Man a 3 inch system is tight on this car. I used my dc thermal arc on tig and while I won't be winning any welding contests I'm happy enough. It is easy compared to this alloy tig crap.













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all 3 inch pipe des? did you have enough room on the right axle? this was a problem by my exhaust
from what is the rear torsionbar and how thick is it?

[PRY4SNO]

When it comes to welding alloys, and this includes all the exotics like Hastelloy, Inconel, Monel, Stainless, Aluminum, etc, PREP IS KEY.

Did you bake your parts in an oven for a time before and after welding?

Just curious.

[diesel des]

all 3 inch pipe des? did you have enough room on the right axle? this was a problem by my exhaust
from what is the rear torsionbar and how thick is it?

Yea the Fox back box goes over the drive shaft. At least part way then I continued it. I will have to make a heat shield or 2 I think. The anti roll bar is a whiteline S2 part as I run all S2 suspension.

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[diesel des]

all 3 inch pipe des? did you have enough room on the right axle? this was a problem by my exhaust
from what is the rear torsionbar and how thick is it?

I don't have any way to preheat other than a gas tourch. I was worried it might contaminate the weld some. The videos I have watched on YouTube show guys just going at alloy with no issues.

When it comes to welding alloys, and this includes all the exotics like Hastelloy, Inconel, Monel, Stainless, Aluminum, etc, PREP IS KEY.

Did you bake your parts in an oven for a time before and after welding?

Just curious.

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[PRY4SNO]

Propane torch.

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[diesel des]

Propane torch.

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Ok I will try that when finishing off the intercooler.

Got the exhaust finished. Just the wastgate exhaust to sort out as at the minute it ends just at the gearbox. Happy enough with how it's worked out. Could of positioned one of the v band clams differently as it's the lowest point. Had to use the press and ball pean hammer to shape the pipe in places to clear stuff. Its real tight. That's a 3 inch downpipe and 2 inch wastgate pipe. Need to figure out what silencer and setup to run on the wastgate pipe. Might exit before the back wheel ? Tig skills are improving too.











Will need to make a few heat shields and wrap the pipes here and there.



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[quattro-nick]

does the waste gate pipe have benefits with your setup?why not straight to the downpipe? do you want to hear it screem?

[diesel des]

does the waste gate pipe have benefits with your setup?why not straight to the downpipe? do you want to hear it screem?

I don't want to have a screamer pipe that's why i will add a silencer to it and run it towards the rear of the car. The advantage is that you don't have the wastgate flow affecting the turbine flow. Also at full boost high rpm almost half the flow could be from the wastgate so having it run a separate pipe removes backpressure from the turbine.

This should all result in lower turbine drive pressure and turbine inlet temperatures. Ultimately a few more bhp.

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[Error404]

Are you adding a heat shield for that CV joint Des? Looks like it will be superheated!

[diesel des]

Yea something needs done with a bit of them alloy plate there to deflect heat. Might just wrap the pipes too.

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[diesel des]

Today I got the seating position sorted along with the final position of the steering wheel and peddles. Doesn't sound like a lot but took ages fine tweaking stuff. Now the handbrake is a bit far forward and I need to start on the positioning of the gear leaver which will be further backwards.

Hopefully my fat butt ballasts the stroker up front lol.

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