New S2 Avant Nothelle N300 owner

[Tractor Dave]

Alright Dave. Do you have any codes or is this why you need a

I haven't got a decent code reader.

[Tractor Dave]

What is most confusing is that the engine fired up immediately when I first ran it and did so every time over a couple of weeks last year while I was sorting the coolant issues.

[Error404]

I would be sure to check fuel pressure first - some fuel doesn't mean its the right - if its not igniting the plugs will always be wet.
Was it a new OEM pump or aftermarket? I've seen enough new pumps fail.

If fuel & spark are good then logically a compression or timing problem can be the only other causes.
If you've flooded it then try putting a couple of cap fulls of oil down each bore and leaving it overnight, then crank it over a few times with the plugs out, will help ring seal prior to trying to start it.

HTH

[Tractor Dave]

Cheers. Good plan.


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[Tractor Dave]

Just a short update as I didn’t get much time on the car today.
I put some oil in each cylinder overnight. Removed the fuel pump relay and turned the engine over with plugs out to clear the excess oil. Clean plugs inserted, relay back. No start.
I couldn’t get hold of the Vag mechanic so tried my cheap code reader again. I got the code 00513. So checked and cleaned all the wires and connections and removed the flywheel sensor and cleaned it (it was a little grubby). Put it all back together. Still no start. How do you test the sensor?
Also found this cracked plug (end of injector wiring.

Next thing to test is the pin hasn’t come off the flywheel!

The fuel pump was a Bosch, new in box from a reputable seller (not eBay!).

Me and the car aren’t talking at the moment.


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[steve briance]

I've not idea what that plug does on your engine but i have had many similar faults with plastic plugs on my engine. One of them was the idle switch and that caused issues when it had broken down to the point of releasing one of the pins so it didn't make contact... The crack is one thing but is there heat distortion / melting on the half of the connector which has the wire spring on it? It might be the photo but it looks a little lumpy.

Not a massive job to disconnect and assess whether the contacts are.... contacting.

[newsh]

The plug with the crack in is for your camshaft position Hall effect sensor.

[Tractor Dave]

The plug with the crack in is for your camshaft position Hall effect sensor.

Quite critical then! The connections still seem good but the wire has been bent over severely just before the connector.

[newsh]

Potential solutions to why your AAN-powered UrS isn't starting

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[newsh]

Quite critical then! The connections still seem good but the wire has been bent over severely just before the connector.

I’m pretty sure if the hall sensor wasn’t working the fuel pump wouldn’t run.

You need the flywheel pin signal to be in the middle of the hall window for the car to start.

[Error404]

G40 hall sensor you can test with an LED across the ground and signal terminals (I forget which one is which).
As John says I believe without the timing sync trigger ref from the G40 the ECU will not activate the fuel pump relay.

On a non start I always start with and confirm the basics first:

Check fuel delivery
Check spark
Check compression
Check Timing

[Tractor Dave]

Thanks everyone. Going to check it all methodically tomorrow

[Bowie69]

Testing the crank sensors with a multimeter set to resistance should get you ~950 ohms between pin 1&2.

[Tractor Dave]

Working my way through all the possibilities.
This looks slightly out to me.
Top pulley mark

Bottom marks in line

So, could the belt have jumped a tooth? It seems tight.
Also, noticed the top pulley bolt wasn’t very tight. I was turning the engine over with it (plugs out) and it tightened up half a turn. What should it be torqued up to?
With the top marks lined up the bottom pulley mark is about 4mm to the right.

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[Tractor Dave]

And checked against the bell housing mark.

Line just out of view.

Top sprocket mark to the right.


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