Titanium Grey S4 Avant

[hunker7]

I am getting 12 v at the ecu

[hunker7]

pin 38, should it have 12v with ignition on? Pin 48 doesn't seem to be grounding?

[UrS4boy]

AAN Motronic ECU device list and T55 connector pin-outs

I am getting 12 v at the ecu

How do you know that? Are you checking at Pin 18 (via the red fuse holder above the ECU) with the ignition off and Pin 27 (via the yellow fuse holder above the ECU) with the ignition on ?

BTW, Pin T55/38 is to do with the trip computer coding plug, not starting.

AAN Motronic ECU device list and T55 connector pin-outs:
http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/21009.phtml

[hunker7]

How do you know that? Are you checking at Pin 18 (via the red fuse holder above the ECU) with the ignition off and Pin 27 (via the yellow fuse holder above the ECU) with the ignition on ?

BTW, Pin T55/38 is to do with the trip computer coding plug, not starting.

AAN Motronic ECU device list and T55 connector pin-outs:
http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/21009.phtml

I just checked the pin 18 I meant pin 37 not pin 38, Switched +12 to injectors?

[UrS4boy]

C4 UrS4/S6 Fuel Injector Wiring

I just checked the pin 18 I meant pin 37 not pin 38, Switched +12 to injectors?

Fuel injector Wiring Info:
http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/90802.phtml

[hunker7]

Pin 27 isn't getting 12v with ignition on I will check/swap the fuse tomorrow and see if that fixes it, also I do have the instrument cluster out, that wouldn't affect it?

[UrS4boy]

Pin 27 isn't getting 12v with ignition on I will check/swap the fuse tomorrow and see if that fixes it, also I do have the instrument cluster out, that wouldn't affect it?

Instrument cluster won't affect anything.

It would appear that the immobizer might be involved, i.e. there was a relay placed between the ignition switch and the S64 yellow base fuse. There should be 12V switched going into the S64 on a black wire. It then goes through the fuse (UrS4s use a thermal breaker but you can replace that with a spade fuse - sometimes the thermal breakers fail) and comes out as a black wire with a green stripe that then goes to Terminal T55/27 at the ECU. No switched power to the ECU = no start and also No power to the diagnostic plugs.

If the fuse/thermal breaker is not the issue, it is the black wire between central relay panel bus Terminal 15 (switched power) under the driver's side of the dash and the S64 fuse holder (this is where I suspect the immobilizer relay likely is located). In a pinch you could run your own 14 gauge wire from the "15" terminal (use a ring connector on the wire) to the input side of the S64 fuse holder.



Terminal 15 is the 2nd from the right, just under the "271" relay in this photo:

[hunker7]

Instrument cluster won't affect anything.

It would appear that the immobizer might be involved, i.e. there was a relay placed between the ignition switch and the S64 yellow base fuse. There should be 12V switched going into the S64 on a black wire. It then goes through the fuse (UrS4s use a thermal breaker but you can replace that with a spade fuse - sometimes the thermal breakers fail) and comes out as a black wire with a green stripe that then goes to Terminal T55/27 at the ECU. No switched power to the ECU = no start and also No power to the diagnostic plugs.

If the fuse/thermal breaker is not the issue, it is the black wire between central relay panel bus Terminal 15 (switched power) under the driver's side of the dash and the S64 fuse holder (this is where I suspect the immobilizer relay likely is located). In a pinch you could run your own 14 gauge wire from the "15" terminal (use a ring connector on the wire) to the input side of the S64 fuse holder.



Terminal 15 is the 2nd from the right, just under the "271" relay in this photo:

Thanks I will start tomorrow with getting the remains of G28 out, and then test the ECU and see if I can find where the "break" is.

As I said before, there was a relay in place where light washer relay should be.

[geneandbolly]

Got the engine to crank when I try to start it, but it still doesn't run. Checked the spark plugs and they were dry, so injectors ain't opening. Because my laptop is being **** I can't connect it to the car for some ****ing reason even though I could on my other car, I thought I'll take out the G28 sensor and while trying to take it out I ****ing broke it, so now I have a metal tube in a hole I cant get out Can't take the whole bracket off becuse them bolts seem to be welded in there + access is complete ****.

does someone own an old audi then??!

[geneandbolly]

I am really starting to doubt your capabilities with a wrench and/or patience performing a task. Obviously you forced things without first trying some anti-rust/corrosion sprays down there.

the prof strikes again!! you're so like my boss - you go to him with a problem, he ridicules you, leaves you reeling and thennnn gives you some help!!

you know you're a nutter, don't you?!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x-Tq5yloOfQ

[hunker7]

I can't get the bracket off where speed and crank positioning sensor goes in, bolts are ****ed up, soo anything I can do to get them out?

[Kieron20V]

I can't get the bracket off where speed and crank positioning sensor goes in, bolts are ****ed up, soo anything I can do to get them out?

I think you're best bet is to give up, make a cup of tea, sit down in front of the computer and buy big super Dave a return ticket from Canadia so he can show you how to remove a bolt or two.

I don't see any other solutions.

/sarcasm

[hunker7]

I am calm. I admit, I did mess up with breaking the g28 sensor, but before trying to get the bracket off, and hammered them, used loads of WD40 on them, made sure the hex key is in properly and still it doesn't move.

[hunker7]

While I am trying to figure out how to get the bolts open I checked the S64 fuse, and it is getting 12v on both sides of the fuse.

[UrS4boy]

I am calm. I admit, I did mess up with breaking the g28 sensor, but before trying to get the bracket off, and hammered them, used loads of WD40 on them, made sure the hex key is in properly and still it doesn't move.

If you really mean hex "KEY", then you are using the wrong device. You need these:

3/8" Drive Allen head sockets: