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Honestly though, I fitted a new pump a while back and found it really hard work to get that ring round to the right place, either the gasket or something was making the whole thing appear thicker.
Honestly though, I fitted a new pump a while back and found it really hard work to get that ring round to the right place, either the gasket or something was making the whole thing appear thicker.
O it was easy to get off, required very little effort. For an individual to have trouble to get it back on then I understand, and hopefully they would take the car to a garage so they can put it on tight, but for a so called professional garage to this level of workmanship is, well I just don't have the words (not ones I can write on this forum). thankfully it's all been removed. Now need to buy pipe & tools. O well it's only money!
Ahh ****** - that means I put mine in wrong 8 years ago. I assumed the arrow pointed up I’ll get a meyle one put in whilst the diff is off.
Man, I love this forum
So a little update on my progress. But first a quick question, does this cover look OK or has something hit it and bent it? It's the one that goes on the rear output of the gearbox. 1-cover.JPG
So over the last few days I started work on the underside of the car, and rust wise it's not that bad. There are a few patches of rust on some of the edges but nothing major & no holes which is a bonus. 2-underside.JPG 3-underside.JPG
So far I have spent about 3 days under the car, washing it first then going over it and removing the rattle can underseal that has been sprayed on.
Rear wheel arches are also in excellent condition. 4-arch.JPG
While under the car I kept getting a smell of fuel, I've got the tank out and that is dry and no damage. So it's got to be down to the bodged pipe work. It's a mixture of old and new so I'm looking to replace the lot.
Not sure what is going on here 5-fuel.JPG 6-fuel.JPG
Looks like they were having trouble refitting clips as a few have been bodged 7-fuel.JPG
The fuel line coming from the tank going to the filter is original and looks to be in good condition, however the line come off the filter is not in a very good condition and needs to be replaced. I also want to get rid of as many joints as possible.
Also got the subframe back from the blasters. It was in good condition except for the offside ARB mount. So got out the grinder, purchased some 2mm steel sheet and hoped it was going to go well! Started of by cutting what was left of the cover off, then welding in 2mm steel to strengthen a couple of area's. 1-cut.jpg
Next replaced what was left of this captive nut 8-nut.JPG
Finally put a new a new cover over it. 9-cover.JPG
Other side was was ok just a bit thin in a couple of area's on the cover so welded in some new steel. 10-cover.JPG
With the steel being so pot marked due to the rust hopefully no one with notice the pot marks left by my welding
Also started on the diff seals. One done so far and the seal was a complete sod to remove, I just know the other 2 are going to be as bad. 11-seal.JPG
Mine has the cover. I suppose it is designed to protect the joint from heat from the exhaust and stop the grease from drying up. As my joint grease is very dry, it's not doing that good a job.
If you can bend it straight, I would still keep it.
Nothelle S2 Avant
Black Ur project
Ocianic Ur project gone
S2 Coupe project gone
Urs6 plus project gone
So I did not make myself very clear in respect to the cover. What I was trying to say was, should the left side follow the same curve that the right has? image_83883.jpg
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