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Originally posted by B5NUT
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Did you plug the stock chipset in yet? -
Not yet, I wanted to make sure there were no further modifications hiding, before reverting to the standard MAP. Thankfully the answer is no so will get the chips installed this week.Comment
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I have a question... So I'm not liking the look of the front subframe. It's got a lot of flaking surface rust and is really in need of being refurbished .From what I can see and have read the front subframe only supports the gearbox, lower arms and roll bar. is it just the case of supporting the gearbox and then dropping the subframe down. Or am I mossing something?Comment
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Yes, just support gearbox and drop.Originally posted by B5NUT View Post
Nothelle S2 Avant
Black Ur project
Ocianic Ur project gone
S2 Coupe project gone
Urs6 plus project goneComment
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Yep, disconnect wishbones at ballpoints, and remove the anti roll bar drop links, down it comes.
No need to support the gearbox if the snub mount is in place, it'll hold it.Comment
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Thank what's the best way of stripping the rust. There are companies local to me that shot blast, but I'm not sure if if dipping it would be better, problem with that is I cannot find anyone local in the northeast that provide a dipping service. Other option would be Electrolysis, If I could find a container big enough.Last edited by B5NUT; 23 October 2021, 19:46.Comment
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Blasting works well enough, these mostly rot from outside in my experience.
When all finished fill with some nice aerosol bilt hamber wax
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Agree. Blasting is best then powder coat if it's going to be a garage queen, por15 or epox for a daily. As Bowie says, bilt stuff is very good.Nothelle S2 Avant
Black Ur project
Ocianic Ur project gone
S2 Coupe project gone
Urs6 plus project goneComment
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Don't rate por15 anymore. Used to be really good, couple of years back I fixed up an A3 and did the hole rear subframe with the stuff, 6 month months later the rust was back with avengeance. For me it's either power coating. epoxy or both... Think the subframe will be power coated then an extra few layers or epoxy for protection.
Also you lot could have warned be about the strut cap's
My god were they on, think I need a better set of stilsons. Had only got that bar to remove the crank bolt, didn't think I'd need it for the suspension.
Screenshot 2021-10-24 230130.jpg
Still suspension stripped and subframe is out.
Screenshot 2021-10-24 230731.jpg
Off to the shot blasters tomorrow with the subframe and the other suspension parts covered in rust. .Last edited by B5NUT; 24 October 2021, 23:10.Comment
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Yeah, strut caps often need cutting off, but heat works well too if replacing the shock ?Comment
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O yes, both shock were absolutely cattle trucked, and in need of replacing. The near side suspension was covered in oil which has been poring out the shock. Other than the cap the strip down was not that bad, only issue I have run into is pressing out the wheel bearings, my 10 ton press is not in the best of conditions and struggles to keep pressure. Got it up to 8 ton and still did not move the bearing so will take then to a friends garage tomorrow, and get them both pressed out.Comment
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Some wheel bearings have circlips -do check....Comment
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No circlips, I remove all of the rust around the edge of the wheel bearing housing, so the bearing would not have to pass a thick rim of rust, but even with that and a mapp torch for heat and 8ton of pressure it still did not budge..Comment
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Time for a BFH.....
I have a 20t press for this sort of thing, not beaten it yet, but sure there will be something at some point.Comment
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Yes, I need a new one along with a 450nm torque wrench, big **** stilsons + any other tool this car needs.Comment
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